West Coast Trail: Hike of a lifetime

As the years passed and the number of ships sailing the Juan de Fuca Strait increased, so too did the number of shipwrecks and drownings along the coast. In time, the coastline became known as, “the Graveyard of the Pacific.”

To aid sailors navigating the shoals, currents, thick fogs, and winter storms of the west coast, the government of Canada established the Cape Beale Lighthouse in 1873 and the Carmanah Lighthouse in 1891. By the time the Carmanah Lighthouse was operational, a telegraph line had been strung through the trails and traditional territories of the Huu-ay-aht, Ditidaht, and Pacheedaht First Nations to establish communications between the lighthouses and Victoria.

While the lights and lines helped, they were not enough to stop the number of shipwrecks from growing. In 1906, when the steamship Valencia went down with the horrific loss of more than 125 lives, the public outcry prompted the Canadian government into further action: Pachena Lighthouse was constructed in 1907; lifesaving stations were established at Cloo-ose and Bamfield; the telegraph route was upgraded to become the Dominion Life Saving Trail, complete with six shelters stocked with provisions for both shipwreck victims and their rescuers.

As navigation technology improved, many of these measures became obsolete and were abandoned. In 1970, PRNPR was established and in 1973, the lifesaving trail was included in the National Park Reserve as a recreational hiking trail, beginning a new chapter in its history.

Today, over 7,500 backpackers hike the West Coast Trail every year. They come to see the beauty, experience the challenges, and walk the path of those that came before them.

All users of the West Coast Trail MUST view the West Coast Trail Hiker Safety Primer.

The Primer is viewed online; links are sent out 1 - 2 weeks before arrival. Additionally, the video will be shown at the Pachena Bay and Gordon River Hikers Orientation centers at 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. daily.

The purpose of the West Coast Trail Hiker Safety Primer is to:

• Provide information about safety issues to reduce the number of hiker injuries and wildlife encounters.
• Reduce environmental impacts by providing backcountry etiquette information.
• Provide information on how to be CoastSmart.
• Provide information on how to read tide charts.

West Coast Trail Pre-Hike Briefings:

Before your hike, you must attend a briefing at Gordon River, Pachena Bay, or Balaats’adt (Nitinaht Village). Parks Canada staff will provide information about current issues and trail conditions, as well as issue West Coast Trail Backcountry Use permits. National Park Entry Fees and any other additional fees will be collected.

Please bring your reservation confirmation information to the briefing.

Hikers will be issued a waterproof Pacific Rim National Park Reserve West Coast Trail map and Tofino tide table references when they register at the briefing.

• West Coast Trail pre-hike briefings are only offered at 10:00 a.m. and 2:00 p.m. daily between May 1 and September 30 at Gordon River and Pachena Bay.
• Reservations are not necessary for the West Coast Trail pre-hike briefings.
• Hikers may check in and participate in a pre-hike briefing session as early as the day before their hike starts.
• We strongly recommend hikers start the trail a minimum of 5 hours before sunset to ensure a camping area is reached before nightfall. Hiking from Gordon River to Camper Bay in one day is not advisable. Plan to camp at Thrasher Cove. Statistics show that most accidents occur later in the day in this area.

Pre-Hike Briefings at Balaats’adt (Nitinaht Village):

• Hikers accessing the trail at Balaats’adt (Nitinaht Village) will go through the pre-hike briefing process at the Balaats’adt (Nitinaht Village) Orientation Centre in Balaats’adt (Nitinaht Village).
• The West Coast Trail Safety Primer video will only be available at this location at 3:00 p.m. daily. It is crucial to watch this Primer video before arriving at the Balaats’adt (NitinahtVillage) trailhead.
• Pre-hike briefings are offered at the Balaats’adt (Nitinaht Village) Orientation Centre at 7:00 a.m. (subject to change). Hikers are able to register their party at 3:00 p.m. the day before but must meet the following morning for a pre-hike briefing.
• Plan accordingly, an overnight stay at Balaats’adt (Nitinaht Village) may be necessary prior to departing on the 8:00 a.m. water taxi. A water taxi fee of $70.00 is payable directly to the operator. (Note: there is only one water-taxi down the lake per day, at 8:00 a.m., leaving from Balaats’adt (Nitinaht Village) to Nitinaht Narrows. A return water taxi to Balaats’adt (Nitinaht Village) is at 4:30 p.m. daily).

The Gordon River Ferry operates daily from May 1 to October 7. The first crossing is at 8:45 a.m. and then 10:30 a.m., 11:30 a.m., 12:30 p.m., 1:30 p.m., 2:30 p.m. and 3:30 p.m.

The Nitinaht Narrows Ferry operates daily from May 1 to October 7 between the hours of 8:30 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. on an as needed basis.

At the access points:

There are some basic tourism services at, or near, all access points. These include accommodations, campgrounds, phones, fuel, some groceries, and food services. There is an ATM at Huu-ayaht First Nation’s Market and Café in Bamfield.

There are no banking services in the villages of Bamfield, Port Renfrew, or Balaats’adt (Nitinaht Village).

Cell phone service is limited in Bamfield and Port Renfrew. There is no cell service at the Pachena Bay Trailhead or Balaats’adt (Nitinaht Village).

To enjoy your West Coast Trail experience you must be comfortable; use quality, lightweight equipment. Your pack should weigh no more than 25%-30% of your body weight. Reassess the content of your pack if it is heavier than this.

• Sturdy boots: High quality hiking boots with good ankle and arch support are required. Soft rubber soles provide better traction on slippery surfaces than hard soles. Do not break in new boots on this hike. An additional pair of sandals or running shoes are good for wearing around camp and for river crossings.
• Rainwear and warm clothing: Bring a durable waterproof jacket and pants; under-layers that keep you warm when wet and are quick to dry, as well as a warm hat and gloves.
• Lightweight backpacking stove and fuel.
• High energy, lightweight, quick-cooking food. To reduce excess pack weight, pre-plan and pack daily meals and snacks before your trip.
• Backpacks require a well fitted, padded hip belt and should be lined with a heavy duty garbage bag or waterproof liner. All of your equipment should fit inside your backpack.
• A tent with a waterproof fly is absolutely necessary.
• Sleeping bag: synthetic fills are preferable, as down bags lose warmth when wet. Pack sleeping bags in waterproof bags and carry them inside the backpack.
• Closed-cell foam sleeping pad.
• The current Pacific Rim National Park Reserve West Coast Trail Map, which will be obtained at the trailheads along with a copy of the current tide charts (Tofino).
• A watch for use with tide charts.
• First aid kit that includes personal medications and treatments for injuries.
• 15 metres (50 ft) of synthetic rope per group to hang food, use as clothes-line, etc.
• Cell phones have limited use but can be useful in some locations. Do not rely on cell coverage but they can be used in conjunction with other signaling methods. Ensure phones are fully charged.
• Gaiters and hiking poles.

Also consider:

• an emergency signaling device
• cash for unexpected emergencies (up to $100 per person is recommended)
• water container, water purification equipment
• toilet paper
• zip-lock type plastic bags for keeping permits and other small items dry
• waterproof lighter and/or matches
• fire starter
• garbage bags to pack out all your refuse
• sun screen
• lip screen
• sunglasses
• hand sanitizer
• toiletries
• flashlight
• weather radio
• repair kits for equipment
• lightweight shoes for camp and river crossings
• cooking and eating utensils
• walking stick or retractable hiking poles
• bear spray and/or air-horn

Do not bring an axe, firearms, bear bangers, or pets!

Before you leave for the trail, write a trip plan: leave it with a responsible person who is not hiking with you (e.g. friend or family member). Detail where you are going, with whom, when you plan to return, and what to do if you do not return as planned. If possible, include an expected nightly trip itinerary and any known medical issues within the group. A West Coast Trail Backcountry Use Permit does not fulfil this role.

For an example of a trip plan see: AdventureSmart.ca.

Travel in the backcountry requires special attention to safety due to the numerous hazards one may encounter. Every season a number of hikers sustain minor injuries but are able to safely make their way off the trail without assistance. Additionally, 60-80 hikers suffer more serious injuries requiring evacuation by Parks Canada’s Visitor Safety team. The most significant contributing factors leading to injuries are previous health issues or a combination of the weather, rough terrain, fatigue, and the level of physical preparation of hikers, however unavoidable accidents do happen.

Based on these factors, we encourage hikers to:

• Prepare themselves physically for the hike.
• Keep packs as light as possible and be prepared to carry your pack for 6-8 days.
• Travel slowly and cautiously over slippery terrain (stay focused).
• Stay hydrated.
• Set reasonable travel expectations each day for your abilities.
• Use hiking pole(s).

Ensure that your party takes time to enjoy the experience. Many accidents and injuries occur when hikers are rushing, not paying attention to terrain, tired, or hiking too late in the day. Do not cross rivers when water level is above your knees. Respect the capabilities of the slowest group member. Take adequate rest breaks and keep the group together. Never split up the group.

During wet, rainy weather, occurrences of physical injury and hypothermia increase significantly. Hypothermia is the lowering of the core body temperature; if not stopped, symptoms can progress from slurred speech and lack of co-ordination to uncontrolled shivering to loss of consciousness and finally heart failure. Ensure everyone in your party is warm, dry, hydrated and well fed.

Assume all walking surfaces are always slippery, not only during damp or rainy periods. Slippery conditions on muddy trails, roots, wooden surfaces, boulders, and rocky shorelines are a major hazard. Hiking too fast, fatigue, poor light conditions, improperly balanced or heavy packs and inadequate footwear all contribute to injuries and accidents.

Bridges and ladders: special care should be taken on all built structures. No more than one person should be on a section of ladder at one time, and no more than two people on a bridge at one time. Large groups should allow extra time to progress past ladder sections. Always maintain 3 points of contact when on ladders.

Cable Cars: keep your fingers, hands, and hair away from the pulleys. Only two people (and their gear) per cable car and platform. Platforms can be very slippery, use caution.

Trail Maintenance is continually ongoing. Boardwalks may be broken for several kilometres; ladders may be missing rungs. Cable cars may be out of commission, making river crossings dangerous and impossible in areas.

Hikers must wade across some creeks and rivers. Be prepared to wait for flood waters to subside; this may take one or more days. Wait for safe water levels and low tides, undo all straps including chest and hip (if you fall, you can slip out of your pack more easily) and wear running shoes or sandals (for river crossings only).

High tides can make beach walking very difficult and sometimes impossible. Carefully follow both the tide charts (Tofino) and West Coast Trail map to avoid being trapped or cut off. Consider the overnight high tide when pitching your tent on the beach. Watch also for large ocean waves and swells when hiking near the water’s edge. For more information on being CoastSmart and to “Know Before You Go Near the Water” refer to CoastSmart.ca

Tsunamis: If the ground shakes under your feet, or you see the waterline quickly recede from the shore, a tsunami may be coming. Move to higher ground and/or follow tsunami evacuation routes. Attempt to gain 20 metres in elevation in 20 minutes.

Drinking water is available from most rivers and creeks. Collect water upstream, then purify, boil or filter it. Do not contaminate water for others.

Do not consume bivalve shellfish (clams, mussels, & oysters) due to regular occurrences of Paralytic Shellfish Poisoning (PSP). PSP can result in serious illness or death.

Fresh water fishing is not permitted on the West Coast Trail.

Salt water fishing is permitted on the West Coast Trail. Carry the appropriate licenses (BC Tidal Waters Sports Fishing License) and follow the regulations and closures.

In an emergency follow the safety advice given to you by Parks Canada staff, lighthouse keepers, First Nation Trail Guardians, or ferry operators; they will notify authorities and assist you until more help arrives.

Cell phone coverage is inconsistent on the West Coast Trail. Do not expect cell phone service, however, roaming connection to US carriers may be possible at some shoreline locations.

Devices such as “SPOT”, “inReach”, satellite phones, and VHF radios are often the only devices that will work on the West Coast Trail. Be familiar with your device and how it operates. Make sure to let your contact person know how to contact Parks Canada Emergency Response in case of an emergency.

Each hiking party is responsible for assisting injured members of their party.

If you are injured,

• but can hike and don’t need medical attention, try to get off the trail at the nearest exit with assistance of your party or other hikers and report your injury to Parks Canada staff; you should not continue hiking in the hope that your condition will improve.
• and cannot hike to the nearest exit or you need medical attention, follow the instructions in the West Coast Trail Safety Information sheet that is issued to all parties with their West Coast Trail Backcountry Use Permit. Parks Canada staff are responsible for assisting injured hikers. The majority of evacuations are done by the Parks Canada Visitor Safety Team by boat, though a serious or complex evacuation may require assistance from other agencies.

Parks Canada staff will evacuate injured hikers to the nearest exit point, ambulance, or medical facility. This is not necessarily the most convenient location for the injured hiker.

Minor complaints such as blisters, sore feet, fatigue and lack of food do not warrant evacuation. The Visitor Safety team works very hard and often gets multiple call-outs on the same day. Please only contact them for serious situations or questions.

• Drive from Victoria via Highway 14 (2 hrs), or Duncan (1.5 hrs) via logging road.
• Bus from Victoria (2 hrs) with West Coast Trail Express.

• Bus (3 hrs) with West Coast Trail Express on gravel logging roads

When travelling by West Coast Trail Express to Balaats’adt (Nitinaht Village), the West Coast Trail Express will stop at the Junction (7 km from Balaats’adt (Nitinaht Village)) and you will be transferred to Balaats’adt (Nitinaht Village) by another vehicle.

It is an offence under the Canada National Parks Act to collect, remove, destroy, or deface any natural or cultural heritage resource within national park reserve boundaries. This includes defacing artifacts, cutting trees for firewood or makeshift shelters and collecting or removing marine life, shellfish, fossils, artifacts, plants, etc. Leave Pacific Rim National Park Reserve in as good or better condition than you found it.

Use a stove and minimize fires. Do not rely on fires for cooking, staying warm or drying out. Small driftwood fires are permitted below the high tide line on beaches only: fires are not permitted in the forest. Use only driftwood (no thicker than your wrist): do not cut vegetation, trees or other plants, and keep fires away from beach logs. Make sure fires have burned out, or are extinguished with water, and dismantled. No trace of the fire should be left. Conserve firewood for other hikers later in the season

Support safe water: use outhouses. Outhouses are available at all designated camping areas. If you are stuck between outhouses, dig a hole 20 centimetres (7 inch) deep, at least 30 metres (100 feet or three bus lengths) away from water sources and well off the trail. Bury the human waste. Dispose of toilet paper in outhouses or pack it out. Use composting outhouses for bodily waste and toilet paper only. They are not compost piles for food scraps, garbage, feminine hygiene products or disposable wipes.

If possible, camp on the beach above the high-tide line to reduce the impact and soil compaction in vegetated areas.

Ensure all washing (bodies, clothes, and dishes) is carried out in the ocean or at the mouth of rivers. Do not contaminate any water upstream. Dispose of any dirty water at least 30 metres from drinking water sources. Use only biodegradable soap.

Your actions can kill wildlife and endanger hikers. Use metal food lockers or bear poles to store wildlife attractants if they are available, and if they are not available hang your food, garbage and toiletries out of reach of animals and away from tents. Items should be a minimum of 4 metres (12 feet) off the ground, 3 metres (9 feet) from the trunk of the tree and 3 metres (9 feet) down from the limb.

Pack it in, pack it out. There are no garbage cans on the West Coast Trail: everything you pack in you must pack out, including orange peels, extra food (do not think you are doing anyone a favour by leaving extra food or supplies in the food lockers), feminine hygiene products, tarps, ropes, and wet clothes. Before arriving at the trail, minimize packaging to reduce garbage and weight. When you depart a campsite, do not leave any items in the metal food lockers. You are not helping other hikers by leaving food or other items behind. The food lockers will become full and unusable, will eventually smell, and still be an attractant to wildlife. Pack out all of your garbage and food.

First Nation reserves and treaty settlement lands located along the West Coast Trail are private property. The First Nations welcome you and ask that you stay on the main trail/beach and obey all signs. Patrol and Guardian cabins are not for hikers.

Respect other visitors and protect the quality of their experience.

If the food lockers are full, or there isn’t one where you are camping, hang your food approximately 4 metres off the ground and 3 meters away from tree trunk. Do not hang your food above your tent or your neighbours’. Clothes you wore when cooking your dinner should be left outside of your tent at night as clothes can absorb food odour.