Mountaineering hazards and safety

Reliable communication with someone outside of the Icefield Ranges is strongly recommended for all expeditions. It is important to be able to call for assistance in the event of injury or illness and to request food drops, weather information and transportation arrangements.

Satellite telephones are the preferred form of instantaneous two-way communication. These may be rented locally in Whitehorse, Yukon. Satellite GPS messenger devices, such as a SPOT® or inReach®, are also effective.

In the event of an emergency and/or need for rescue, all expeditions should be able to communicate key information to emergency dispatch or rescue personnel. Be prepared to provide the following information (but not limited to):

• Your location: latitude/longitude/elevation
• Nature of the emergency
• Current weather: visibility, wind, precipitation
• Immediate hazards affecting your location (crevasses, avalanche, serac, cornice, overhead exposure)
• Your phone number or satellite device address for further communication

All expeditions should be fully capable of self-rescue and should be able to bring their sick or injured members to a location where an aircraft landing and evacuation is possible. Expeditions of four or more people are stronger and more capable of self-rescue than smaller groups.

Delays in search and rescue response times may be lengthy due to:

• Delays in reporting the emergency
• Availability of suitable aircraft
• Adverse weather conditions
• Elevation and location of the sick, injured or stranded persons
• Time required for members of a rescue team to arrive and acclimatize

Insurance is required for all expeditions in the Icefield Ranges.

The weather within the Icefield Ranges remains in winter-like conditions all year round. Severe storms involving cold temperatures, high winds in excess of 160 km/h (100 mph) and excessive snowfalls are common and can last for several days at a time. Prolonged confinement within cramped tents or snow caves often occurs due to bad weather.

Air temperatures can range from minus 40 degrees Celsius to well above freezing during the climbing season depending on elevation, aspect and current weather patterns. Cold injuries such as frostbite and hypothermia are always possible and should be guarded against with high quality winter mountaineering clothing, sleeping bags and tents. Intense solar radiation and long hours of daylight make sunscreen and good quality sunglasses a necessity.

Food high in fat and carbohydrates is recommended for maintaining strength and warmth. Sufficient water must be consumed to prevent dehydration.

• Allow for extra time, food and fuel in the event of delays in flying into and out of the Icefield Ranges.

As a mountaineer you will be carrying loads of 20 to 40 kilograms (40 to 90 pounds) at altitudes of 2000 to 5900 meters (6,500 to 19,500 feet).

High Altitude illness may occur on routes that are ascended too rapidly. Proper acclimatization must always be considered. Acclimatize slowly: carry high and sleep low.

Teams are expected to be self sufficient and to identify and medically manage medical problems at high altitude, including but not limited to:

• Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)
• High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE)
• High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE)
• Cold Illness and Injury: Frostbite and Hypothermia
• Traumatic and Musculoskeletal injuries
• Infectious Disease: Bronchitis, Gastroenteritis, Urinary tract infections
• Fatigue, Dehydration and Electrolyte Abnormalities

Signs, symptoms and treatment recommendations can be found here.

The preferred early treatment for any suspected high altitude illness is to descend as soon as possible.

Recommended Medications for all climbing teams for treatment of High Altitude Illness include, but are not limited to:

• Acetazolamide
• Dexamethasone
• Nifedipine

Consider the following medications for common illness and injuries:

• Acetaminophen for mild pain and fever
• Ibuprofen for mild pain and fever
• Antiemetic for nausea
• Antibiotic for Pneumonia
• Antibiotic for Urinary Tract Infection
• Antibiotic for Skin Infection

All climbing teams are recommended to consult with a physician experienced in high altitude medicine prior to departure.

Objective hazards such as crevasses, avalanches and corniced ridges may be encountered during any expedition.

• Travel roped on all glaciers

All members of your expedition should be knowledgeable of crevasse rescue, wilderness first-aid, glacier travel, winter mountaineering and navigation.